Getting Ready For Warm Weather

Spring is here, and summer is soon to follow!  There are several ways we can get our Great Pyrenees ready for the coming seasons!  Here is an important check list of sorts, to ensure you are ready for the great warm weather to follow!

• Purchase an undercoat rake.  This will help lift up all that undercoat that is ready to shed away to reveal that lighter, warmer weather fluff!  
• Consider any events or trips where your Pyr may be exposed to direct sunlight.  While they do not have skin that is readily exposed, often their noses can become sunburned from prolonged exposure to the sun.  Purchasing a sunblock formulated for either dogs or human infants is a safe way to go!
• Remember when walking your dog on warmer days, to take a moment to reach down and feel the pavement with your hand. Because we wear shoes, it's easy to forget our friends do not.   Remember their paws can be damaged by hot cement or streets, and it's important to not forget to feel what their paws are treading on!
• Get your Pyr back on heartworm preventative, if they've been off (Year-round heartworm preventive is recommended).  Don't wait for the scorch of mid-summer to address preventing heartworm.  If they've been off of heartworm seasonally, it's advisable to get them tested for heartworm to ensure they are negative before you place them back on preventative.
• Get prepared for long walks, by having water bottles and a receptacle to pour water into.
• Remember, NEVER shave your Great Pyrenees!  Many owners think by ridding them of their heavy coats, they'll be better suited for warm weather.  Their coats play an important role in keeping their body temperatures proper, and they also protect their skin from the sun.  Their fur helps insulate them against warm weather as well as cold.
• A great snack and way to cool your Pyr off is offering them ice cubes.  Many dogs love this as a fun snack, and it also helps cool them from the inside out!

We hope you and your dogs are looking forward to a fantastic spring and summer!

Food Recall!

IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING A RECENT FOOD RECALL:

Two apparently separate dog food recalls have been issued in the last 24 hours -- one by Procter & Gamble's Iams brand, the other involving several regional brands produced by agribusiness colossus Cargill -- that both involve the same concern over an unfriendly mold being present in your furry best friend's food.

Both recalls are being done because tests indicated a higher than acceptable aflatoxin level in samples. Aflatoxin is a by-product of the fungus Aspergillus flavus and can do some unpleasant things to creatures that chow down on it.

First up, P&G has recalled one product lot (it doesn't specify the total number of units involved in the lot) of Iams ProActive Health Smart Puppy dry dog food.

The recalled lot has Use By or Expiration Dates of February 5 or February 6, 2013.

Here are the specific codes involved in the recall:


The affected product lot was distributed to a limited number of retailers located in the following states: AL, CT, DE, FL, GA, LA, MD, ME, MS, NC, NH, NJ, NY, PA, SC, VA.

Iams says that retailers have already pulled the product from shelves and that no other Iams product is involved in the recall.
And then there's the Cargill recall for the following dog food brands produced in the company's LeCompte, LA, facility:

           PROFESSIONAL FORMULA RIVER RUN HI-NRG 24-20 Dog Food, 50 pound bags
           RIVER RUN PROFESSIONAL FORMULA 27-18 Dog Food, 50 pound bags
           RIVER RUN 21% Protein Dog Food, 40 and 50 pound bags
           RIVER RUN Hi-Pro No-Soy Dog Food, 40 and 50 pound bags
           MARKSMAN DOG FOOD 24% Protein 20% Fat, 40 pound bags
           MARKSMAN DOG FOOD 20% Protein 10% Fat, 40 and 50 pound bags
           MARKSMAN DOG FOOD 28% Protein 18% Fat, 40 pound bags


The recall only applies to the above products with the following Packaging Date Codes (lot numbers): 4K0335 through 4K0365, LL0335 through LL0365, 4K1001 through 4K1335 and LL1001 through LL1335.

Cargill says the affected dog food was distributed to stores in the following: Kansas, Missouri, Northeast Oklahoma, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Tennessee, Western Kentucky, Southeast Indiana, Southern Illinois, Hawaii, Guam, the U.S. Virgin Islands and limited areas of Florida and California.
Pets which have consumed any of the products listed above and exhibit symptoms of illness including sluggishness or lethargy combined with a reluctance to eat, vomiting, yellowish tint to the eyes or gums, or diarrhea should be seen by a veterinarian.

For further info on the Iams recall, including how to get a replacement voucher, customers can contact P&G toll-free at 866-908-1569 (Monday - Friday, 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM EST).

People who bought any of the Cargill-produced brands can return the product to the place of purchase for a full refund. Further info can be obtained by calling 855-460-1532.

Frost Bite And Hypothermia

The other day I met dog who was presenting with a slight limp.  He was licking his paw, and the owner suspected injury.  Upon examination by a vet, it was determined he had frost bite.  His owner, a good owner, seemed surprised, and took away a valuable lesson regarding our dogs and winter.

I think it's easy to assume most dogs are resilient to most weather.  We revere them as descendants of wolves, who live their entire lives outside.  And sure, some dogs are tough cookies.  The reality is, is that we have domesticated dogs, and we have to avoid thinking of them as wild animals who can adapt to all weather challenges.

I highly doubt small breed owners skip considering the heat needs of their dogs.  We see them in sweaters, being carried over inches of snow, and we witness a lot of consideration regarding how frail they my or may not be.  I think large breed owners may not spend enough time considering that while their paws are unlike our bare feet, they are still bare feet.. and extreme weather can cause harm.

Hypothermia is  real risk for owners who leave their dogs outside in the winter cold for too long.  They need shelter and  warm place, regardless of breed.  As Pyr owners, we know our Pyrs love the snow and can spend ages playing outside.  If left to their own devices, as dogs who are bred to live in cold conditions are, our Pyrs would likely dig a whole and find ways to stay warm.  A short haired breed may find those same holes to dig, but it doesn't mean they are okay.  We have to think long and hard on where our breeds originated from, and their weather tolerance therein.

It is not okay to leave your dog out in the cold all night without shelter.  Some dogs are used as working dogs, guarding livestock, etc. and they are better equipped to manage how they cope.  "Family" dogs are different.. they need family and warmth and shouldn't be left outside if they don't have a working dog's job to do.

I think all dog owners should have a thermometer.  Dogs are hotter than us.. their normal temp is 99.5-102.5.  I also feel like dogs running around in your back yard are afforded the ability to let you know when they've had enough, assuming they romp around and then bark or scratch to come back in.  I think when we put our pets at risk is when we take them on long walks without considering what long term exposure to temperatures do to their paws.  I think we need to look for their signs: when they act like they don't want to walk anymore, when they start to sit or lay down.. these are also things dogs do when walking on too-hot pavement.  Do the reasonable thing: reach down and feel the ground.  Is it steaming hot?  Is it frigid cold?  My Pyrs can play for ages in my back yard, but they are also afforded the ability to jump onto the deck and give their paws a break. 

Dogs are sturdy creatures on the whole, but how exposed are their paws?  Do they live their days on warm, soft carpeting, or are they always out on trails with you, causing their paws to harden to conditions?  Every dog is different.  Talk to your vet before taking your dog on long hikes in the snow this season.  Ask them what they feel is a fair amount of time on the snowy ground without  a break. If you have a dog who is outside a lot, bring them in when the temperatures get too cold.  Realize that short-haired breeds are less tolerant of the snow, and invite them into your warm home.  Dogs are not wild animals, and we read too many unfortunate stories in the summer and winter months regarding owners who do not take their needs into account.

If you believe your dog to be suffering from hypothermia, take it to a vet immediately.  Do not attempt to warm up your dog yourself, short of wrapping them in a blanket.  There are very effective ways to warm a body correctly, and warming up a body too fast can be very detrimental.  If you are unsure, call your vet first and explain to them the situation.  No one is going to jump to the conclusion you are a bad dog owner; some dogs escape and run away, and we find them in need of medical care.  Perhaps you thought you let your dog in before you left, but you didn't.  Perhaps you overestimated what you perceived their cold tolerance to be.  If your dog is acting differently after long exposure to weather, they may need some attention.

A Guide To Your Dog Having A Safe Holiday Season

Halloween marks the beginning of a festive holiday season, full of great foods and decorations.  There are many year-round safety considerations for your dog, and it's important to give yourself a refresher course in how to protect your dog from any unfortunate holiday illnesses.

FATTY FOODS
Our dog's digestive systems are more sensitive than ours.  While a table scrap here or there may seem harmless, keep it limited to vegetables, fruit, and scraps of meat that are not the fatty parts you've cut off. If sharing fruit, never pass them the seeds, as many seeds of fruits contain toxins. The "holiday illness" our dogs develop is Pancreatitis; their bodies cannot keep up with all the fatty foods we're passing their way, and they develop a serious inflammation of the pancreas which is painful and will require hospitalization to get their digestive enzymes regulated again.  More on Pancreatitis

FOOD BLOAT
Excessive amounts of food, as we allow our pets to mirror our Thanksgiving Day over consumption may lead to bloat.  While over-eating and getting bloated may not be life threatening, a distended abdomen mirrors symptoms of other very serious conditions like Gastric Dilative Volvulus.  When we see our pups with distended abdomens, we always need to treat it like an emergency. More On Bloat and Gastric Dilative Volvulus

ONIONS/GARLIC
Allium, found in onions and garlic, is toxic to dogs.  Many of our holiday feasts ask us to use onion and garlic in the ingredients.  In small amounts it is likely not going to cause a problem (if you look, many dog treats contain garlic), but consumed in large amounts causes acute hemolytic anemia.  A vet said it would take an average sized dog eating half a dozen in one sitting to cause an acute issue.  But it's not good for them.. so just don't do it.

COOKED BONES
It's always tempting to throw a dog a bone, when we've cooked our amazing turkeys and hams.  When bones are cooked, they more easily can fragment and shard, causing digestive issues and potential punctures in their GI tract.

TINSEL, RIBBBONS
While I feel like these items are more tempting for our feline friends, pet owners should avoid decorating their Christmas trees with tinsel.  It's easily consumable, and it's hard to pass.  Just today I assisted in a surgery where a dog ate that plastic ribbon we wrap our gifts with, and she needed surgery to remove it.  Keep your wrapped gifts out of your animals reach until they are ready to be opened!


CHRISTMAS TREE NEEDLES
Yep, live trees do rule over fake ones.  However, those needles, as they drop, are tempting for our dogs to lick up.  If consumed, they can put your dogs at risk of small punctures in their digestive tract.  If you have a live tree, stay on top of sweeping up those needles as they fall off.

POINSETTAS, MISTLETOE, and HOLLY
These are all poisonous plants.  While most people have fake holly and mistletoe decorations, poinsetta plants are everywhere.  If you can't avoid them in your house, be sure they are up where your dogs and cats cannot reach them.

CHOCOLATE
I think most dog owners are aware that chocolate is toxic for dogs.  I think this time of year it becomes important to be sure all your house guests know also.  Having family and friends over, be sure everyone knows not to toss chocolate snacks to your dog.  Dark chocolate is more toxic than milk chocolate, but be sure to never share things with chocolate.


HOLIDAY LIGHTS
Most dogs go through a phase of chewing on wires when they are puppies.  If your dog went through that phase already, remember that adding new lights/wires in your house adds something "new".  Your dog may be inclined to give a chew and risk getting zapped.  Unplug your lights when you are not able to monitor your dog's chewing habits. 

ORNAMENTS
Ornaments are just shiny "balls" waiting to be played with, and potentially swallowed or chewed on.  Personal experience has taught me that if ornaments are very secure on a tree and do not fall off, you tend to be safe... unless your pup is extra naughty and may pull at them.  I have used extra care to secure ornaments to trees in the past to ensure no tempting "shiny ball" falls to the floor.

SIDEWALK SALT
When there is snow and ice on the ground, many establishments pour salt all over the sidewalk.  If you are unsure if they are using pet-safe salt or not, avoid walking your dog over it.  Friends have experienced painful irritation to their dogs paws after treading over sidewalk salt. 


ANTI-FREEZE
It's cold again..  never forget that anti-freeze tastes sweet and it needs to be stored in a place where our animals can never reach it.  I'll never tire of warning people about the horrible risks of consuming anti-freeze.

On the whole, when we love our pets we get joy from treating them as humans.  I know some who read this now are already sure they will be buying doggie gifts this season!  Our dogs don't care if being treated as "part of the family" means they eat what we eat.  Their year-round reward is our devotion and love, and tantamount to any of that is our protection and leadership.  Resist the urge to neglect their needs as dogs, and keep unsafe items out of their reach this season!

Toxicology Guide

Metal Lawn Edging and Your Dog

Our friend's paws are important pieces of anatomy.  Think of all they do with them..  walk, play.. and, of course, the polite hand shake they give us to remind us how awesome they know we are.  I've been seeing a fair amount of pups with bloody, horrible paw lacerations as of late, and they are being caused by stepping onto the sharp, metal lawn edgings we add to our yards to make them look so nice.

I think short of first hand experience, there are many things in our homes which can cause injury to our pets.  On the whole, most owners just don't think of it until something happens.  Lawn edging, for example, could have pre-dated your move in and it wasn't something you thought too much about.   Additionally, perhaps it seems that your dog doesn't ever seem to play where the sharp edges threaten their paws.

There are several things we need to consider when we own dogs.  If I own anti-freeze, where is it kept?  If I am unsure if the previous tenants used rat poison, shouldn't I check to make sure it's gone?  Add to that list.. If I have lawn edging, is it metal, and if so, is it where my pup may accidentally step on it one day?

While I have never personally seen a lawn edging laceration that was "life or death", they are all bloody, deep, and may likely take a lot on your part to manage it's healing.  When you show up to your doc to fix the bloody paw, you are likely looking at sedatives, pain management, anti-biotics, and stitches to close the wound.  Your friend's paw will need to be wrapped and protected while it heals, and based on the severity, this could take time.  Let us not forget about the "cone of shame" your pup will have to most likely wear in order to prevent chewing.

I don't know a ton about lawn care and accessories, but I know there are alternatives to the metal edging.  There are covers you can put over the metal, and there are also other edgings such as brick.  If you have a pup at home, consider your lawn and the threat to his precious paws.  It also doesn't hurt to consider the tender, bare feet of children at play while you're at it!

Dog Behavioral Modification 101

The field of dog training and dog behavior is an ever-growing field, with more new information emerging all the time.  It's also a controversial field, with many experts disagreeing with certain approaches to behavior modification.  I'm going to review some basic pieces of information regarding approaching your dog's unwanted behavior.

Before reviewing this, it's always important that owners distinguish between "unnatural" behavior and "unwanted" behavior.  With behavior that is natural for a dog, it becomes important to approach them with patience and understanding that we are truly trying to alter that which is essentially natural for them.  And it being natural, we shouldn't feel disappointed, frustrated, or that something is wrong with our dog.  Natural dog behavior includes digging, barking, sniffing our delicates, and potentially chewing on something before they know any better.  These things aren't wrong, they are unwanted.  Unnatural behavior can be any natural behavior taken to excess, ie. barking that is persistent without relent all day long.  This is a tough determination for an owner to make, as we are not as sensitive as they, and often times there are real reasons they are overstimulated which are still natural.  Unnatural behavior may also be obsessive behaviors, ie. a dog I once knew who'd fixate on the last place he saw his ball, and not leave until physically forced.  He's stare for hours.  This may be more natural for a terrier breed (their job is to find the vermin in the hole), but it wasn't natural for his breed.


1. Positive Reinforcement.  This is often considered the most effective method.  Versus constantly reprimanding them for unwanted behavior, focus must be to reward them for desirable behavior.  Often times the challenge here, is that we pay less attention to our dogs when they are being perfect.  If your dog is just calmly by your side, being mellow and sweet,  he needs to be praised.  He can make a reward correlation between going potty in the right place, being mellow, not barking, any time he is great or does an appropriate thing.  The reward can be treats, play, affection; whatever is your dog's motivator.  I cannot stress enough how easy it is to miss acknowledging good behavior when it isn't related to potty training. 


2.Negative Reinforcement.  This includes presenting a negative stimulus following an undesired behavior.  For example, shock collars or choke collars, as well as invisible fences.  They don't learn what is "right", but they learn what is wrong because they receive a negative response when they perform it.  This is considered less effective than positive reinforcement because it punishes them, yet doesn't show them truly how to behave. 

3. Punishment.  I take away something you like when you do something I don't like.  I personally feel there is a fine line between this and negative reinforcement, because like negative reinforcement, it shows the dog what you don't like, but it doesn't necessarily show him what you really want him to do .  Some argue another example of punishment is turning your back when  your dog jumps.  He associates a negative result.. you turn away.. but he may not learn it's because he didn't sit.  He just understands it's because he jumped.  He may stop jumping, but don't expect he will make the assumption to sit.  He may just walk away.  A personal exception, I think, to this is removing a snack if they become aggressive over it.  But, I feel this can be a mixture of positive reinforcement also.  If he's being naughty, he loses the snack.  When I give it back and he allows me to take it again without complaint, I pour the praise and allow him to keep it.

4. Classical Conditioning.  This is where you teach your dog to associate things together.  I ring the bell by the door, I go outside.  I go outside, I pee and my owner is happy!  Clicker training falls under this category.  I hear the click, I know to do something as per I was trained.

5. Counter Conditioning.  This is using something incompatible with the undesired behavior.  Using play to bring your dog to a different emotional state.   For a dog who is fearful, we try to create a different emotional state by countering their current one with other stimulus, ie. throwing the ball/frisbee.


6. Desensitization.  This is tantamount to when we see people overcome their fear of snakes by slowly increasing their exposure, until before you know it, they're holding the snake.  This could work with an item which scares the dog unreasonably, like a specific house item that is natural.  This is also the approach many take with separation anxiety.  You leave for 5 minutes.  Then 10.  Then 20.  Slowly you desensitize your dog to the anxiety caused by your departure.

They key thing to remember about all behavior modification, whether cats or dogs, is that we need to acknowledge the behavior immediately.  It's not fair to try and correct your dog for something they did 5 hours ago that you missed.  Yanking him by the collar to drag him to a pile of poop will probably not resonate with him; we will never fully understand how long their short term memories are.  In all fairness, when I come home to destruction I don't punish my dogs, but I definitely vocalize unhappiness towards the pile of debris without directing it towards the dog.  Catching them in the act is a whole other issue.  Consistency is everything, and everyone in the house must utilize the same modification methods.  If not, the dog will not understand.  There is a difference between using a louder, dominant voice and freaking out and yelling at your dog.  The later will cause your dog to be fearful, and it's intensity is not proportionate to the offense.  I hesitate to write about dog behavior and training, as this issue stirs a lot of passion in people.  It's the biggest area of argument.  Case in point, at Petsmart adoption events, the employees use water bottles and spray the dogs who won't stop barking.  This would fall under negative reinforcement.  People walk by and make snide comments about it being cruel, but many others find this an effective method, so long as you are not spraying their faces directly.  I concur with not spraying faces; it's less about being cruel and more about not wanting your dog to accidentally inhale the water.  That would be bad.  If any readers have used methods to train which they found super effective, I encourage you to jump on our forum section and share with the other readers!

Fourth of July Pet Safety Tips

Click on the link below for a great article with tips to keep your Pets safe during the Fourth!

Fourth of July Pet Safety Tips

Oh My God My Dog Ate Chocolate!

In my last semester at my vet tech school, we reviewed toxicology in detail.  I thought the whole time, how I wished I'd had this info before.  I, for one, don't trust the internet too much.  It was great learning it first hand, in class.  Case in point, one day, we realized a tiny bottle of anti-freeze for our motorcycles managed to find itself left in the back yard.  Not in a place we thought accessible to our dogs, but.. they found it.  They found it, because it smells sweet and tastes even sweeter.  Rat poison is like that too.. it's meant to seem attractive to the mice, so it's attractive to your pets.  I about had a heart attack that night, when my boyfriend told me they wrangled off the lid.  He caught them fresh in the act, and assured me that no one got more than 1 lick, if that.  But, I had heard so many horror stories, so I kept checking my dogs all night for symptoms.  When I learned the reality of the toxicity, i felt kinda stupid.  Not stupid for my concern, but stupid that i wasted so much time freaked out over a potential lick.

When I finally took my class on the subject, I created this cheat sheet for my friends.  It's not inclusive of toxic plants and veggies, but it addresses some other concerns.  As a rule of thumb, always research all the flowers and plants which grow in your yard to exclude any potential toxins, and of course, never feed your dogs grapes, onions, or garlic.  Grapes can cause kidney failure, and onions/garlic can cause hemolytic anemia.  I don't have the lethal doses, but just keep them away!

In addition, if you are moving into a new house, patrol the garage and basement.. any other nooks where previous owners may have set out traps for rodents.

Veterinary Toxicology Quick Reference Guide

CHOCOLATE (Theobromine)

Milk chocolate contains 44 mg/oz Baking chocolate contains 390 mg/oz

Toxic dose 250-500 mg/kg. 

Signs: anxious, muscle tremors, vomit/diarrhea, fast heart beat, abdominal pain, seizures, coma

PEST CONTROL/RODENTICIDES

Toxic dose 1.8 mg/kg cats 4-7 mg/kg dogs (all are extremely lethal and more lethal for newer formulas)

Signs: vomit/diarrhea, anorexia, difficulty walking, difficulty breathing, bloody stool, bruising, pale mucous membranes

ACETAMINOPHEN/TYLENOL

Toxic dose 50-60 mg/kg cats 150-200 mg/kg dogs.  (Extremely lethal in cats!)

Signs: dog- lethargy, anorexia, vomiting, abdominal pain. Cat- vomiting, salivation, face & paw swelling, difficulty breathing, fast breathing, muddy/brown mucous membranes

LEAD: lead-based paints, bullets, batteries, fishing sinkers

Signs: anorexia, abdominal pain, seizures, difficulty walking, blindness, vomiting

ZINC: (pennies, vitamin supplements, desitin, baby rash ointments, some soaps, electronics)

Signs: vomiting, diarrhea, yellowing of mucous membranes

ETHYLENE GLYCOL (anti-freeze)

Lethal dose 1.5 ml/kg cat, 6.6 ml/kg dog

Signs: vomiting, difficulty walking “appears drunk”, lethargy, excess drinking/peeing, seizures, coma, fast breathing, fast heart beat (dogs can have these symptoms and then seem to improve but it’s not real)

XYLITOL (sugar substitute found in sugarless gum, diabetic candy, diet yogurt, chewable vitamins, baked goods)

Toxic dose: 0.15g/kg

Signs: weakness, depression, seizures, coma

Home methods to induce vomiting

*do not induce vomiting if your animal is having seizures, difficulty breathing, appears to not be getting enough oxygen (blue gums) or if known substance is caustic (acidic) Okay to induce for chocolate, anti-freeze, Xylitol, Tylenol, toxic plants, and rodenticides

Ipecac syrup (especially in cats) Oral administration

0.5 to 1 tsp per 10 lbs – dog,  1 tsp- cat

Hydrogen Peroxide 3% Oral administration

1 tsp/10 lbs by mouth; do not exceed 3 tbsp

(Kilograms are your animal’s weight in pounds divided by 2.2)

ANIMAL POISON CONTROL CENTER 1-888-4ANI-HELP (1-888-426-4435)

Purchasing Pet Drugs Online: BUYER BEWARE

READ THESE ARTICLES: 

• FDA Consumer Health Information Article - March 2010
• Online Pharmacies May Not Be Selling Valid Pet Medication - June 2011

When ordering online:

1. Order from a website that belongs to a Vet-VIPPS accredited pharmacy.
2. Mail the prescription provided by your veterinarian to the pharmacy after your pet receives a physical examination.
3. Order from an outsourced prescription management service that your veterinarian uses.

Keeping Your Pyr Cool This Summer...

Question
"Should I shave my Pyr for the summer?"

Answer
You should NEVER shave your Pyr unless it is absolutely necessary.  
Heat Stroke can occur to any mammal exposed to direct sunlight and heat for too long a period of time.  As a long-coated breed, Pyrs are no exception.

Pyrs have double coats - a top longer layer and a shorter undercoat (which accounts for the white fluff that is probably floating around your house and yard).  The undercoat is what keeps them warm in the winter. The top coat actually keeps them cooler (think of people living in the desert, long sleeves of thin fabric).

Shaving your Pyr can actually increase their risk of heat stroke because they will no longer have the insulation of their coat to protect them from the heat.

Additionally, your dog can get sunburnt, which can be a much bigger issue for some dogs than simply getting overheated.

Summer Grooming Tips:

• Undercoat Rake - if you have never used one of these on your Pyr, it is a must have!  You will be surprised at the amont of fur this can take off in just one 30 minute grooming session.  
• Slicker Brush - used mainly for the top coat after you have used the undercoat rake.
  You can get both of these at any pet store and they are both relatively inexpensive!
• Brushing your pup once a week for about 30 minutes should keep the shedding relatively at bay

Question
"If I shouldn't shave my Pyr, then how do I help keep them cool in the summer heat?"

Answer
Remember that dogs don't have sweat glands all over their body like people do, they only have them on their feet.  They rely on panting to cool down their bodies, which is not as affective as sweating, making them much more susceptible to heat stroke.

• Some dogs really enjoy playing in a kiddie splash pool of water, which is a great way to cool off your dog since their sweat glands are in the pads of their feet. 
• Provide plenty of fresh cool drinking water!  Remember not to leave your dog's water bowl in the sun or it will heat up--imagine drinking a cup of hot tea in the summer sun, yuck!
• Always provide your pup with a shady spot!  They need a place to escape from the beating heat of the sun, so make sure there is a shady place for them to go.  And remember, that as the sun shifts so does the shade and trees may not provide proper shade all day long.
• "My Pyr, Romeo, likes ice cubes. Dumped a bunch in the water bowl one time and he'd bob for ice cubes, chew 'em, then go back for another. So now I leave a bowl of just ice cubes out next to the water." - David

Also remember to NEVER leave your pup in parked car on a hot day!!  This is one of the number one causes of heat stroke in dogs.  Even with the windows cracked on a 70°F (22°C) to 80°F (26°C) day, while it may feel comfortable outside, the inside of your car can heat up to over 100°F (38°C) in minutes!  As you can imagine, with that thick fur coat on, your dog's body temperature rises very quickly.

Please email us if you have any questions that we can answer!  Or if you have questions or comments that you think might benefits others, leave a comment below and we will respond as quickly as possible!

Have a wonderful summer and keep those furbabies cool!